There’s a quote I’ve heard that goes, “The best time to plant a fruit tree was 10 years ago; the next best time is now”. Well, I managed to hold off for one whole year to give myself time to prepare the ground, and now I’ve done some planting.
Aside from an abundant strawberry patch and a few coastal melons, my CSA share is all vegetables (and flowers). But in a few year’s time, there’ll be raspberries, blueberries, apples, pears, and plums as well. The planting is now done, the irrigation is mostly set up, and the mulching is underway! Here’s some of the details:
Site Prep - I wrote a blog post about this a few months ago describing the steps I went through to get the ground ready. One of my goals was to get the perennial grass to die back so I could replace the ground level flora with clover and a mix of forbes. In this I was mostly, but not entirely successful. The ground between the berries rows and fruit trees is now full of dutch clover, yarrow, chicory, and more, but there is still pasture grass coming back. No longer, however, will I have the problem of thick grass sod competing with the tree roots and overwhelming the mulches.
The soil I started with was already pretty acidic (5.4). I added lime where the fruit trees were going, but not in the berry section. In these beds, I was able to incorporate some peat moss, and soon there’ll be a thick mulch on top. The entire area received a generous dose of rock phosphate, and some azomite as well.
Varieties - My perennial patch consists of 440 bed-feet of raspberries, 850 bed-feet of blueberries, 50 apples, 14 pears, 8 plums, 12 peaches, and a few miscellaneous trees just for me. Here in Arcata, our cool summers really limit the variety of tree fruits that will ripen here. Many apples and pears do well, but only a couple types of plums (Beauty, Prune), one Peach (Frost), one Fig (King) and no nectarines, apricots, cherries, persimmons, walnuts, etc. You can grow Meyer Lemons in sheltered yards, but citrus doesn’t really thrive here either.
In deciding what kinds of apples to plant, I talked to a bunch of folks in the area, and I also asked myself what qualities were most important. Rust and powdery mildew resistance are a plus here, flavor is a high priority, and I mainly wanted apples that matured in Late September through October with decent storability. The varieties I ended up planting are King, IdaRed, HoneyCrisp, CrimsonCrisp, Mutsu, William’s Pride (early), and a couple others to try.
With the blueberries, I decided that, for the size of my patch, it was better to have a lot maturing at once than to have an extended harvest season. At least two varieties are needed for good pollination, and I chose Chandler and Bluecrop. For raspberries, I chose Himbo Top and Anne, both everbearing types that have their larger fruit set pretty late in the season (after the strawberries and blueberries).
Spacing - Most of the apples are on M7, with some M111. The plums and peaches are on Citation. The spacing I chose was 12’ between trees in a row (staggered) with 14’ between rows. This between row spacing is a bit small for tractor mowing, but the orchard’s not too big, and can mow with a brush mower. Depending on how things are looking, I’m playing with the idea of letting the ground cover stay a bit tall and wild. The in-row spacing is pretty conservative for these rootstocks. Some people plant them much closer, but because of our potential for mildew problems, I wanted to maintain good airflow.
The raspberries are at 3’ and the blueberries are at 5’. The rows are 8’ apart. It looks wide open now, but it’ll fill out in no time.
Irrigation - For the fruit trees I’m using Supernet mini-sprinklers, and the berry beds each have two lines of 1/2” emitter tubing. They’re set up to be watered separately, and there’s a nice big spin-clean filter on the header.
Mulching - The berries are getting a top-dressing of cottonseed meal, then a double-layer mulch of green waste compost (lots of conifer) and small fir chips. Redwood chips and shredded bark are the cheapest mulches around here, but I’m avoiding them because of the growth-inhibiting tannins (though I guess the jury’s still out on which plants this is actually harmful to). I’d like to mulch the fruit trees with hardwood chips, but there aren’t too many of those around here. Instead I’m using rice straw, with a scattering of feather meal beneath. I thought about using some of the composted cow manure I have, but it’s too weedy.
Anyway… Here’s some pics.
At this point, nearly all of the seeds I ordered for 2010 have arrived, and I’ve sorted and grouped them all into big ziplock bags so they are easy to find during the season. In this posting, I’m taking a look bag at the order and teasing out some info for you:
1) Cost - My seed costs are pretty high for a couple of reasons. For one, I’m trialing a lot of new varieties. This means that instead of getting a bulk price for a larger quantity of one type of, say, mainseason carrots, I am buying 3 or 4 types at a higher per-seed price. Even when I do cut down on the amount of new varieties I’m trialing, my per-acre seed cost will remain high simply because I grow relatively small patches of many different crops. I’ll never be getting the largest quantity discounts. Below are my 2010 costs for the 6.5 acres of annuals I plant over the course of the season:
Vegetable Seed: $3,186
Flower Seed: $341
Seed Potato: $1,208 - 550 lbs, 11 varieties, shipping included
Strawberry Plants: $780 - 8750 plants, 6 varieties, shipping included. I really only needed 4500 plants, but I’m trialing new varieties. I was able to sell many of the extras.
2) Organic Seed - I purchase certified organic seed whenever its an option for the varieties I choose to grow. Because I rely on the income from my farm, it is more important for me to choose a variety that I know will perform as needed, even if the seed is not organic, than to choose a variety simply because its certified OG. I do make an effort to try new OG varieties each year, but as it stands, just 66 of the 165 veggie varieties I’m growing this year are organic seed. 10 of the 11 potato varieties are OG, but only 1 of the 6 strawberry varieties was available as OG.
3) F1 Hybrid Seed - The situation is similar when it comes to Open-Pollinated (OP) varieties vs. Hybrid (F1) varieties. I am always seeking OP varieties that perform well, but I do plant F1 varieties when they show a noticeable advantage over similar OP strains. This year, 83 of the 165 veggie varieties are OP, and 37 of the 38 flower varieties are OP. Because seed producers can make more money from F1 seeds, it seems that the breeders are less focused on OP strains. I do not grow any GM seeds.
4) New Varieties - There are a number of crops where I feel like I haven’t yet found the best possible varieties for my climate, soils, or time of year. To try and remedy this, I trial a number of new varieties each year. Of the 220 annual plant varieties I’m growing this year, 73 are new to me.
5) Seed Saving - I am not currently saving any of my own seed. While I recognize the potential for improving the adaptation of varieties to my farm, I am not ready to commit the time and space required. Perhaps when I’ve identified more of the OP varieties that do well for me, I will begin to save some of my own seed.
6) Sources - I purchased seed and planting stock from 11 different companies this year. What I’m looking for is: a) The varieties I want, b) The availability of organic seed, c) Good bulk pricing, and d) A reputation for high-quality & reliability. This year I purchased from Johnny’s, Osborne, High Mowing, Territorial, Snow, Stokes, Peaceful Valley, Turtle Tree, Uprising, Ronnigers Potaoes, & Lassen Canyon Nursery.
They are turning the dirt and hoping to be successful enough to turn a profit, and to become a valuable part of their communities as suppliers of organically grown food.
Peaceful Valley is giving them a head start by offering them special pricing as part of this Freshman Farmer program.
| Freshman: | |
| New Farms Coming Soon! | |
| Sophomores: | |
![]() | Daily Grace Farms Crescent City, CA |
![]() | Freestone Family Farm Vernal, UT |
![]() | Wise Moon Farm Redding, CA |
| Graduates: | |
![]() | Coyote House Farm Palermo, CA |
![]() | DeepSeeded Community Farm Arcata, CA |
![]() | Driftwood Farm Fort Bragg, CA |
![]() | EarthDance Farm St. Louis, MO |
![]() | Ellwood Canyon Farms Goleta, CA |
![]() | Four Frog Farm Penn Valley, CA |
![]() | Hand Sown Homegrown Heritage Farm Poulsbo, WA |
![]() | Home Plate Organic Farm Orleans, CA |
![]() | Honey in the Heart Farm Nevada City, CA |
![]() | Willow Springs Farm Penn Valley, CA |
| Coyote House Farm Palermo, CA |
| Daily Grace Farms Crescent City, CA |
| DeepSeeded Community Farm Arcata, CA |
| Driftwood Farm Fort Bragg, CA |
| EarthDance Farm St. Louis, MO |
| Ellwood Canyon Farms Goleta, CA |
| Four Frog Farm Penn Valley, CA |
| Freestone Family Farm Vernal, UT |
| Hand Sown Homegrown Heritage Farm Poulsbo, WA |
| Home Plate Organic Farm Orleans, CA |
| Honey in the Heart Farm Nevada City, CA |
| Willow Springs Farm Penn Valley, CA |
| Wise Moon Farm Redding, CA |